Questions and Answers
Your Questions About What Cars Have Cheap Insurance For New Drivers
Do I owe this person money for something that was not my fault?
A few months ago my friend let me borrow her car. I was turning on a green light, when another car hit me on the driver side. When the police came to the scene, he gave her a ticket for running the red light, so obviously it was her fault. My friend got a 5000 dollar check for the accident, which was what the car was worth. She then chose to buy a car that was worth 10,000 dollars, and her mom told us we have to pay them 500 dollars because that was the amount for the sales tax. We told her we were not going to pay, but now she’s threatening to take us to court and sue us for 5000 dollars if we don’t pay. Am I legally suppose to pay for the taxes on her new car? She could have gotten a cheaper used car for the amount that she got from the insurance company.
Some friend, although that’s why I avoid borrowing or loaning cars.
No, she was paid in full for her damages, she can sue all she wants and never get a judgement for that nonsense. Her loss was EXACTLY what that car was worth, and she was paid it.
On the other hand, if it were me, I’d be suggesting to THEM that these aches and pains and headaches etc I have been getting lately, might be due to the car accident, and you HOPE you do not have to sue her for medical bills, pain and suffering. But, just in case, I need all that license, insurance, registration info. I hope her car had no known defects too, which contributed to your injuries. Like lights, turn signals, brakes, seat belts, horn, tires, hesitation on acceleration, loose flying objects inside the car, previous unrepaired body damage, etc.
Is it smart to buy a Category D Car?
I’m looking for a first car and I have found some really nice cars (from 2006-2009) at cheap/ reasonable prices. However it says that the car is Cat. D. What does this mean and is it a good idea to buy a Cat. D. car for a new driver? And will it have an affect on my insurance?
I’m from the UK.
It shouldnt have an effect on your insurance.
A CAT D rating means that it has been in some sort of accident. Resale values will be much lower when and if you come to sell. If you are looking for a car under £30k new, CAT D will not be appropriate as it will cost a lot to repair and will always be that little bit weaker. If you are going for something like a ferrari thats been in a smash, a CAT D is the best thing you can do.
To sum up:
1. If it is a prestige model, go for it
2. It will not affect your insurance
insurance wont pay for damages?
i was involved in an accident this week.
it was the other drivers fault.
her insurance company(geico) wont pay for my damages, instead they proposed that they want to pay me my car value
i have an old car. a 1993 Subaru. if they pay me the value of my car (about $800-1100) it wont do me any good. its not enough to pay for the damaged caused by their client, nor is it enough to but a new car.
what are my options? are they not supposed to pay for the damages? basically they are taking the cheapest way out.
does the law say anything about this? are there anyways to have them pay for damage instead of car value?
if not…can i pursue legal action?
please help, its must appreciated and thanks in advance.
Sorry but they are completely correct. When the cost to repair damages nears or goes over about 70% of “fair market value”, all insurance companies will pay you for the car instead of fixing it. You may however have the option to buy the car back from the insurance company and then you can do what you want with the car and with the money. That is all they are obligated to do. They do not have to fix it nor do they have to buy you another car.
What should I do? I’m so confused?
e being a first time driver after long hours of searching for car insurance found these with an extremely cheap quote, or so I thought, to make it cheaper I put my Grandmother as a main driver and me as the named driver. She has 9 years NCB so we put that down to them that this is what she had little did I know you could only use it on one policy at a time, they requested proof and so we sent it to them via email from the other insurers. So without discussion or telling me that they will have to increase the premium, they just did it from £1,500 p/a to £4,800 p/a and they wanted me to pay £612 p/m , monthly is how i pay for insurance, so I rang up to see what and why this had happened and they explained about the NCB one per policy etc. So I said I wish to cancel my policy with you and then was told I had to pay a £500 CANCELLATION FEE?!!? WHAT? so now I am struggling to pay for anything at the moment as I’m only on a low income as I’m only 19. I think £500 for cancelling a policy is a bit much! Considering all insurers have a 14 day cooling off period some even a 30 day, from when I took the policy out at £1,500 the period had ended, but surely that the new premium means a new cooling off period? This they do not understand!!!! I suggest you steer well clear from this company as they will sting for cancelling any policy as they said to me over the phone that is out cancellation fee THIS IS NOT WRITTEN ANYWHERE ON THE WEBSITE!
Just be grateful you aren’t in jail for fraud.
Insuring a new driver?
I will be soon getting my license (California), however I will not immediately be purchasing my own car. I am sixteen and I will most likely be driving one of my parents cars in the interim. Now here’s my problem. My dad owns and e55 and my mom owns a 328. My mom commutes every day so driving her car is off the table. My dad almost never has to go anywhere in his car as he is currently on disability. The only problem is insuring me on the e55 will cost a fortune. My dad currently has the car insured under State Farm and their quick estimate say’s I’d be paying nearly $600 a month. Now, I know there are multiple discounts I can apply for, but I’m not exactly sure what I’m eligible for. Since this would be a shared policy as a part time driver, would it be significantly cheaper? I’m just looking for options here, my dad wants me out of his hair but he also wants me to be paying insurance. I make enough that I could just barely afford $500 a month but that would leave me with no expendable income so…. help.
Have your mom use the e55 to commute each day, so you can use the 328.
What is a good first car?
I’m a 17 year old girl and I have had my license for over a year now. I have a job and I need a car to get to and from work. I have been driving my mom’s car to work, it is a toyota echo, so I am an experienced driver. I have almost $5,000 saved up and my dad said he will pay for half of my car, but I have to pay for gas, insurance, etc. I have been looking at the new Chevrolet Aveo, it looks pretty nice and it’s only about $12,000. Any opinions on this car or any other first cars? My price range is anything under $13,000. I’m afraid to get a cheap car, like under $5000 because my brother has bought 2 cars under $5,000, and they both broke down. I know this doesn’t mean it will happen to me, but I would prefer a nice, reliable car that I will take with me to college and that I will have for a long time. Again, I am a very experienced driver I have been driving my mom’s car to work almost every day, but she is tired of me driving it all the time and thinks it is time for me to have my own car. Thanks!
For Aveo some say steering is not good. I don’t know myself.
Maybe to find Ford Fiesta with good rebate or discount.
“new car” under 12k
(with quotes on “new car”)
what should i expect in a auto accident and insurance settlement?
I was hit from behind on Wednesday evening heading to work. The driver was ticketed by the police and their insurance company has admitted full liability. Injury wise, I have whiplash which thankfully, is going away now. My car, according to their adjuster, is going to be claimed as totaled. So, my car is valued at 7400, and repairs just from visual inspection, are 7015. So they are going the totaled route as its cheaper for them. After they buy the car from me, they will sell it to salvage, expect to get 2k from it, and only be out 5400 instead of a full cost of repairs.
So I’ve had the car for a year and half, taken out on a 5yr car loan. I still owe 12k on it. After they cut a check to the lean holder, I’m still responsible for 5k on that loan. The bank and my insurance at the time didn’t offer gap insurance. Stupid of me, I let my current policy expire to search around for a more affordable policy. I kept procrastinating, and the accident happened with me having no insurance. Lucky he hit me and is at fault.
I’m trying to see what my options are. I’ve gone to the liable company’s website and see their basic plan for my state, law requires 25k in property liability for at fault accidents, plus medical etc. So I’m wondering what should I expect from the lady handling this claim.
I’m not fooled when she called me yesterday and said that she is here to work with and for me. Saying that “there is probably a lot of talk about lawyers, just know they will take 30-40% of you settlement. Know that I’m here to work for you, try to work with me” I’m thinking my head total bull crap. 1, she works for her insurance company first, and will have their interest first, 2, she works for their client and to protect them from me in a suit.
In the end, I’m not stuck with a car that they will not fully pay to have repaired, and will still owe 5k after they pay the loan holder the value of the car. My credit is damaged and getting a new loan is probably not going to happen easily. I really don’t want to get a lawyer but I now have a car sitting in my driveway that I can’t use plus a balance in the end.
Anyone got some suggestions as to what I should realistically expect. The lady mentioned a liability settlement, repair settlement, medical expenses settlement, and personal injury settlement. I’m not out to make money on this as that just will not happen. But I have no car and will owe 5k still. I’m just like…f**k
Sounds like you already know all the facts. And, you are correct. There is nothing you can do about still owing the bank money.
You are lucky the other person has a good insurance company and are quickly paying for the damage to your car and your injury. But all insurance companies try to give you nothing when it comes to pain and suffering. So, if you think you deserve some money for it, espciallly if the injury is serious then you might consider an attorney.
I am 17. Is it possible for me to be a named driver on my dad’s insurance to have a go in his xkr convertible?
I only want to have a few goes in it just to see what it’s like to drive a jag 420hp monster! Also, will it be cheaper to do it while i’m a learner, as he will be in the car instructing me? I’ll be responsible, unlike a lot of the stupid new drivers. It’s group 20 so that may be a problem. I was also wondering if there is a cheaper way other than being a named driver?
Thanks in advance,
Named driver is the cheapest way i believe, you could try TempCover.com if your in the UK.
I think insurance is a tad cheaper if your still a learner, although in a powerfull car like that i doubt it would make a difference.
Where to get cheap glasses..?
I work as a delivery driver and my vision is bad enough that I’m REQUIRED to wear glasses to drive. I can drive without them, I can see the road, cars, and other people, but I can’t see road signs or house numbers, and it’s extremely hard at night.
My store recently started scheduling me at another store in town where I am unfamiliar with the roads and I don’t own a GPS. I can’t navigate, and I certainly wouldn’t be able to find apartments around here. The manager there is already pissed at me for not having glasses, but he won’t let me off for the four nights he wants me to work…
The entire reason I don’t have more is because, obviously, I’m broke. My car keeps breaking down, bills keep piling up, and Christmas money took care of what I owed, but I’ve got $20 to my name right now and my car is STILL having problems starting.
I’m lost, I’ve built up really good credit, but none of the banks will give me a loan because I’m 20. My parents have already dumped a good deal of money into me to help me fix my car, I don’t want to strain them anymore. It feels like the only way that I could get a new pair of working glasses (both eyes have different prescriptions) is to join the military or somehow pull some good health insurance out of my butt, but I can’t do that because I don’t think I can handle another monthly bill.
Are there any other options? I don’t know what to do, I’m scared of losing my job because I can’t do it well enough, but it feels like they’re only making me work MORE (not a single day off this week or next) when I really just… Can’t…
Places like Walmart or Visionworks (was Binyons) will have cheap glasses, but I wouldn’t sacrifice quality for glasses by going super cheap. If you can’t afford it, try contacting your local Lions Club and see if you can get glasses through them. I work as an Optician for LensCrafters, and we get quite a few people coming in from the Lions Club for a free eye exam and free glasses. They’re not the most fashionable glasses, but they are better than nothing. And if anything, you can try to save up for a nicer pair later on.
And FYI for smartypants22: The only OTC glasses you can get are readers for up close reading. They don’t make OTC glasses for distance, which it sounds like this poster needs.
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